How To Do Trends Sustainably

Friend and follower, Hilary, suggested this topic for the blog several months ago. We all see trendy items pop up on a regular basis, and every now and then there is one that catches our eye. And, we are absolutely allowed to like whatever is trending at the moment. The challenge is that participating in trends doesn’t tend to be very sustainable. Trends are typically not environmentally sustainable, may not be ethical, and are not financially sustainable. But, does that mean we have to swear off any type of involvement? Taking away something that brings us joy doesn’t seem like the solution either.

I haven’t written this post until now because I have been on the hunt for a good answer. At The Ordinary Hippie, I always strive to present a perspective that is unique from what you will likely find if you look at other common sources. I always want content to be relatable, but to also challenge us to approach these themes in different ways.

What Information Is Already Out there?

So, what answers did I find when I explored articles on how to do trends sustainably? I was surprised, but most of the articles were consistent in their responses. I think that the responses are good, but I also feel like they are more or less common sense answers that we would likely all think of on our own.

Shop Secondhand

I am a big advocate of shopping secondhand, for a majority of reasons, and probably 99% of my wardrobe is thrifted. But, this can also be a possible solution for participating in trends without contributing to further waste.

Unfortunately, a large amount of trendy items end up at secondhand shops. This can be because stores are unable to sell the amount of inventory they have on hand, so it gets donated to the closest thrift store. This is also because a lot of individuals who participate in trends quickly move on and no longer want to incorporate those pieces into their wardrobe.

Shopping secondhand is likely to yield fruitful results, but the downside is that the trend may be over by the time you are able to participate.

On the flip side, for trends that are resurfacing, such as early 2000s fashion, the secondhand stores are filled with vintage pieces that allow you to participate immediately in the trend without buying new items.

Clothing Swaps/ Rentals

If you want to participate in a trend for a single outfit or event, swapping clothing or accessories with your friends or renting the desired item can be a great alternative. It allows you to be a part of the fun without making a purchase that may not be the best fit for you.

Even when not taking trends into consideration, if you need an item for a single event, check if your friends or family have one you can borrow. It saves you money, and it is more sustainable by not purchasing something that you are going to have to throw out, donate, or re-home later.

Upcycling

Upcycling can absolutely be an option, but I think that it is the trickiest option. We do not all have great DIY skills, so you may not be sure where to start. But, if there is a trend or style that you like, it is well worth taking a look at what you already have to see if it can easily be modified to match the trend you are trying to recreate.

Also combined with this would be shopping your closet, aka, using what you already have in innovative ways so that you can participate in the desired trend.

How Do Trends Start?

GlamObserver states that:

The concept of trend started in the 14th century when the upper echelons of society demonstrated their social position and wealth also by how often they could change their looks. 

Historically, trends have been started by those in positions of influence, such as the leaders in the fashion industry, designers, and celebrities. To an extent that remains true, but there is a definite shift in how trends are being pushed out that raises the question of “who is inspiring these ideas?” (Spoiler: it might not be what you think).

Alternatively, there continues to be an uptick of micro-trends or fads, as opposed to simple trends that would last for extended periods of time. You can come across a trend today, and by the end of the month it is no longer popular. I could, and probably should, do a full post talking just about how trends have shifted. And also to look at whether there have been any benefits from the concept.

Intentional Purchasing

I have hinted at the concept of intentional purchasing a few times on the blog, and I plan to create a stand alone post on this valuable topic in the near future.

But intentional purchasing is about not immediately giving into the adrenaline rush you get from the prospect of a new item to purchase, but instead, taking a step back and allowing yourself to really consider the purchase and to decide if it is the right choice for your values and goals.

Intentional purchasing is friendly to your wallet, helping to decrease impulse purchases.

Intentional purchasing is more sustainable, helping to avoid overconsumption.

Roberta Fabroccino’s post on Sustainably Chic says it best:

Will you wear these items when they are no longer on-trend?

This one may seem like a no-brainer, but one has to consider that not all trends are particularly wearable or that timeless either. If they genuinely suit you, your personal style, and your lifestyle, you’ll love them regardless of whether they are trending or not.

From a sustainability perspective, though, it’s good to think ahead and genuinely ask yourself if you think you’ll wear that piece in one or more years. Clothes that make us feel like ourselves tend to stay in our closets for longer and get much more love and care than those of people from back in the day.    

And intentional purchasing can help you come to realizations, like the one below, from Amanda of ClothesHorse Podcast.

We Are Being Played

Amanda Lee McCarty (she/they) is the passionate owner and creator of ClothesHorse Podcast. I first came across one of their posts on Instagram and their well-researched content quickly became my go-to resource for the topic of sustainability in the world of fashion and capitalism. Amanda not only dedicates substantial time and resources to research and staying up to date on pertinent information, but they also come at this topic from years of experience working directly within the Fashion industry for brands such as NastyGal and Urban Outfitters. They have been on both sides of the table and understands how consumers and the environment are being impacted.

In a recent episode series unpacking they decreasing quality of clothing, Amanda breaks down about how production teams are able to make the numbers “math” (and you thought that girl math was problematic) so that they can churn out insane amounts of clothing at cheaper prices than ever, while continuing to increase their profit margin.

In an attempt to reach impossible profit margins, cost cutting becomes a dangerous game in the world of fast fashion.

At this point, the garment still might closely resemble (at least from afar) the original sample that we all loved.  But we’re probably still not at the cost we need to hit. So this is when we start cutting details:

Below is a quote from Episode 187, Why New Clothes Are Kinda Garbage: Part 1:

Pockets will go first  In fact, production probably already assumed that would happen and has revised costing based on that.

We’ll probably pull out the lining (or swap to something cheaper, even notice just how bad some linings are in dresses, skirts, and outerwear these days? That’s why).

And then things get more desperate:

We will play around with length: the maxi skirt becomes a mini. The mini becomes a micro mini.  Maybe the pants are cropped. The shirt or sweater becomes a crop top.

Maybe we shift from a long sleeve to a ¾ sleeve. Or remove the sleeves entirely.

We remove layers and pleats that create volume. 

And we might have to swap the fabric or yarn AGAIN.

If it is embellished with embroidery or sequins or beading, we will remove more and more of the embellishment. Maybe the sequins are only on the front.  Maybe it’s just a little sprinkle around the collar.

This is really where the design changes so much. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: I can’t help but think this part of the process actually creates fashion trends. Not runway shows, not style bloggers. No, pricing.  If we only offer you crop tops  you’ll start to think that longer shirts are no longer cool.  Would you feel differently if you knew we only sold you crop tops because they are cheaper?

The Impact

When I walk through a store looking at the latest releases, I am now left wondering: is this actually trendy? Or are we the pawns in a capitalist driven game of fast fashion chess?

I, and all of you, can still choose to participate in a “trend.” But now, there is an ick associated with the possibility that I am picking an item that was never meant to be trendy, just convenient.

Knowing what Amanda shares, it really makes me pause to consider whether I am being played by big businesses – if they are selling a trend just to cover up their lack of ethics, then I feel like I am being made out to be the fool because they tricked me into spending my money.

Choosing Not to Participate

Ultimately, the answer to participating in trends sustainably, may actually be not to participate at all. I don’t think that this answer is going to be popular and I realize it sounds a little bit like an anti-peer pressure segment on public television. But I am being completely sincere when I offer this suggestion.

When we talk about intentional purchasing, it doesn’t matter whether you are looking at a small business or a large chain corporation. If that purchase does not serve you, then bottom line, you do not need that item.

If you look at a trend and you can’t find a good reason to participate, then just don’t. These are the few times when a lack of action is actually the most ethical or the most sustainable option that you can choose.

Alternatively, if you have been thoughtful in your purchasing decision, then of course, go for it! The goal is to work towards more sustainable practices, but not to take away the fun or police the decisions that everyone is making. What matters, is that our decisions are made from a place of education and intention – not blindness.

What are your thoughts? What ways have you found to do trends in a more sustainable way?